Sometimes It Works, Sometimes It Doesn’t

Making both churros and spätzle today, I wondered what would happen if I tried frying the spätzle dough and boiling the churro batter. The churro batter didn’t work out at all. It was water-logged and almost disintegrated. The fried spätzle dough was slightly...

Brisket Fat. The (new) New Fat

Bacon fat? Been there, done that. Schmaltz? They say it’s the new thing, but I’ve been doing that for a decade already. But what about brisket fat? I love brisket and it’s a regular menu item for me. If you get a whole brisket, as opposed to just the...

The Crouton Test

All chefs have different ways of testing a cook’s abilities in the kitchen. You hear a lot about egg cookery. I think you can tell a lot about a cook or restaurant by how well they make croutons. No, seriously. How much care do you take in making something that many...